Tuesday, January 31, 2012

whatever made up this mess expressed it with the intelligence of conflict, sick-intellect.

Abdoulaye Wade and his son
Much discussion today is focused on the political situation here in Senegal. At the end of February the country will hold presidential elections. This last weekend (Jan 27/28, 2012) saw the announcements of candidacy. The current President Abdoulaye Wade had petitioned for permission to run for a third term in office. Tensions are heightened because the constitution was recently updated to limit presidents to a maximum of two terms. Wade and his supporters claim that since his first term started before this change that the limit does not apply to his first term as president and thus he is eligible for a third. The constitutional council in a decision last Friday, agreed. This is what sparked the violent protests on Friday night.
In my corner of the world, very little of the violence was noticeable. I stayed at home entertaining myself for the weekend with books, movies, and computer games. My experience of the violent protests was totally confined to sending emails to people assuring them that I continue to be safe (and I do).
Dakar protesters, Jan 27, '12 
Today we had another security briefing. More demonstrations are planned for this afternoon. The opposition movement in Senegal, most commonly referred to as M23 (for the June 23 Movement), has called for nationwide demonstrations protesting Wade's candidacy. Senegal generally requires that all public demonstrations be approved before they can take place, and the government has not approved today's protest. The M23 plan to go forward with the demonstration anyway, and this is what causes concern for possible escalation. 

In the northern town of Podor reports are suggesting that Gendarmes (police) opened fire into a crowd of peaceful protesters killing two and injuring others. Concerns on some sides are that this is sanctioned, and a similar response is possible to the demonstration today. On the other hand, there is a concern that due to this show of violence on the part of gendarmes the opposition is more likely to escalate their protest themselves. Either way tensions are high and we've been advised to head home in advance of the start of the protest. 
I left the office a bit earlier than planned so that I could make sure there was enough time for 1 or 2 quick errands. Gendarme presence (in riot gear) on several street corners. And at the gas station at the end of my street a somewhat ragtag group of soldiers are directing traffic (and looking vaguely menacing). An extra bottle of water, 2 baguettes, and a few other staples and I'm home and for the day. 
Hoping for non-violent political protests.




Photo credits:
http://africamix.blog.lemonde.fr/2011/06/24/senegal-abdoulaye-wade-est-il-encore-un-democrate/
http://www.businessday.co.za/Articles/Content.aspx?id=163639

Monday, January 30, 2012

a wage-slave forty- hour work week (weighs a thousand kilograms...)


My current accommodations are located quite close to a small intersection (round point) which boasts several small fruit and vegetable stalls, a couple of tidy (and not so tidy) little shops, and a gas station. Each morning I walk out to catch a taxi at approximately 8:25 am (it takes 5 minutes to get to work) and am accosted by not only the usual (and familiar) sights of nescafe stalls, mobile credit sellers, and general hustle and bustle, but also by anywhere between 3 and 5 young boys. They carry large empty tin cans and tug at my bag and sweater asking for money.
It took me approximately 1 day at work to connect these young kids with vague references to 'vulnerable children such as 'Talibes'' in Plan Senegal program documents.  In Dakar many young boys are sent to Koranic schools where they live in extremely poor conditions, receive no formal schooling, and are sent onto the streets to beg for money, sugar, rice, and other supplies all day long - often every day of the week. They then take their earnings back to their teachers and in return receive nothing but abuse, beatings, and inadequate or often no food at all. Plan Senegal has been working on improving the living conditions of talibes, engaging them in semi-formal schooling, and raising awareness around the rights of these children.

The taxi ride to work takes me through Ouakam and Sacre-couer two very nice suburbs of Dakar and generally costs me about $2.00. 


The work day itself is long - 8:30 to 5:30 and while we do get a 1 hour lunch break there is little in the neighborhood to spend the hour doing so I've yet to take the entire time. My days are spent largely sitting in a cool (cold!) office reading reports on Plan programming and initiatives throughout West Africa. I share my office space with one other person, it's large and airy, and has great windows. It is so 'officey' that it's almost painful to sit there and look out the window at all the heat, and dust, and taxis, and vendors, and feel so removed from that Dakar - you could work in this office and never even notice you were living in West Africa (if you wanted).


In the evenings I strategically place myself so that the taxis that pick me up take me along the Corniche (which I think would translate most accurately to 'ridge') instead of through town. This way as I head home at the end of a long day I am treated to the lovely view of the sea to the west and some stunning (it might almost be accurate to call them) cliffs. 
In the distance I can see the African Renaissance Monument. It features a muscular man holding a baby on his left shoulder. The baby points to the horizon (out over the ocean [into the future?]) and the man and baby's gazes are focused off into the distance. On his right he seems to have captured some (swooning) female whose  lax arms almost suggest she's been drugged and is now being hauled (into the future?) - her gaze is - of course - focused on the man. (this thing cost 27 million dollars, according to wikipedia, can you believe it? - I know I can!)



Photo credits:

for a place where awkward belongs

In deciding that not keeping a blog meant having to update everyone individually I have caved into the (probably) inevitable reality. blogging. Something that I am inherently not good at. Mostly because I find the very idea of chronicling my life rather... narcissistic. (and at the end of the day - I always end up asking myself  'why would anyone want to read that?')


In an endeavor to keep things lively(or depressing) - I think I will try to write about things that I learn. People that I meet. Or odd curiosities. rather than the mundane realities of my tortured existence. (yes tortured, I assure you)


Things to expect: random updates on really strange topics usually not well written or of much interest.


Things not to expect: good grammar, accurate use of punctuation, proper spelling.